Sunday, 15 January 2012

The Drink of the Irish- Dublin (Day 2)

We began Sunday with brunch at a great (albeit small) restaurant called Cafe Tiesan http://www.tiesan.com/. We miss being able to sit down at a restaurant for brunch at home, so it was perfect to sit and have coffee (the Cafe Latte was perfect-- lots of steamed milk), have delicious food (Adam had Guinness Bread French Toast), and read the paper. It was the perfect way to start a Sunday.

And after brunch, we headed to St. Patrick's Cathedral for Sunday service.


We don't have any of the pictures of the interior due to the fact that service was occurring. Rest assured it's beautiful (like all of the great European Cathedrals). And the choir during the service was fantastic. It really was mesmerising.

GUINNESS STOREHOUSE
And immediately after service, we walked to the Guinness Storehouse, of course.
And we learned how Guinness was made (the entire museum has a very industrial feel. It's great).

Ingredient #1: Barley

A huge supply of barley was on display.

Ingredient #2: Hops

Ingredient #3: Water

By the waterfall

Ingredient #4: The Brewer. Which is not to say, that despite this picture, that Adam is the brewer. Or that he was not excited to be there. :) But that the rest of the process is all about controlling the process. Including the boiling (this room in the museum is extremely loud, by the way)
 And we tasted some Guinness:
Just a bit to wet your whistle

Saw exhibitions about the transportation of Guinness throughout the world, it's advertising campaigns and the like. Did you ever make the connection that the Guinness Book of World Records was connected to the Storehouse? It is indeed.

"The word beer is thought to originate from..."

"...the Anglo-Saxon word Baere meaning Barley."


Original wooden casks. Making these was a word of art. When the factory switched to metal casks, they turned the wooden casks into furniture. Yes, it would be great to have an original cask table, wouldn't it?



The harp, like the one here, is the national symbol for Ireland. It is on the back of all Euros produced in Ireland, and is part of the national history.

A Guinness Ad.

And then headed to the Galaxy Bar on the fifth floor to have a full pint. We met a friend here too-- Tony the Dentist from Louisville who we had the pleasure of hanging with later that night at the Literary Pub Crawl. More on that in a minute.
The Galaxy Bar had a 360 degree view of Dublin. It was great.

See St. Patrick's off in the distance?

Cheers! (Your tour includes a pint)
All of the guide books say that the Guinness tastes different when you are in Dublin. I have to say that it did. It was not as harsh as it can be in the States. Adam, however, found no difference. And I have decided it will be time to have a pint the next time we are at the Elveden Inn, our newest favourite hotel/pub that is owned by Lord and Lady Iveagh. Lord Iveagh happens to be a descendant of Arthur Guinness, the original brewer of the drink itself. I'll let you know what we find. Or better yet, come here and try some with us!

BULL & CASTLE
We loved the Bull and Castle so much the day before, we had to go there again-- to try more microbrews, of course! And it didn't hurt that we walked right by it on our way back to the Temple Bar district from the Guinness Factory. No pictures, but great beer, and food, once again.

LITERARY PUB CRAWL
On our way back to Grafton Street, we saw the following. Adam thoroughly enjoyed it.



And then we got to Duke's Pub where the crawl began. During the crawl, we visited four pubs, all of which had to do with literary figures who are from Dublin (Seamus Heaney, Brendan Behan, James Joyce, Jonathan Swift, Oscar Wilde, George Bernard Shaw, Samuel Beckett... you get the drift).

A very blurry picture of one of the pubs we hit along the way: M.J. O'Neills.
 Two men were our guides (see below) who performed pieces of different literary works (ex: Waiting for Godot) along the way. It was a great time.
Our hosts/ performers in action.

Our hosts and performers.

I came in second in our pub quiz earning me a small bottle of Dublin Mouthwash: Bushmills Whiskey. (Note: it was small enough that I could take it home on the plane with me= perfection.)
We met some great people (including an entire college class from Lafayette University- boy, did that bring me back...), including our Guinness Storehouse friend Tony.
Our new buddy who promised that the next time we meet up (in another European city), he would "bring a female along" so that I would have someone to talk to. lol Oh, the joys of travel :)

Saturday, 14 January 2012

The Luck of the Irish- Dublin (Day 1)

We found the luck of the Irish, the history of the Irish, the drink of the Irish, the music of the Irish and the hospitality of the Irish ("You are very welcome!") while we were in Dublin over three days (we flew in early on Saturday morning and departed Monday night). Before I bring you along on our journey, see if you can't find this youtube video first, and play it along while reading this entry: http://martindardis.com/id157.html. This is a song called "Hand Me Down My Bible" by the Dubliners and is the song that will always bring me back to a pub in Dublin when I hear it. Ok, here we go.

ARRIVAL
We arrived in Dublin at 7:30 a.m. It was still dark outside, so we watched the sun rise from the top level of the Double Decker bus we took from the airport into the centre of Dublin. We were dropped off in front of the gates of Trinity College, and began walking toward our hotel. Here are a few of the things we saw:
The entrance to St. Stephen's Green, which looked an awful like the entrance to Central Park to me.

St. Stephen's Green

St. Stephen's Green

St. Stephen's Green

We passed the Albany House, of which we had to take a picture. We were so happy to see the word Albany and not actually be in Albany (Albanians, we miss you, just not the place)

We arrived at the hotel
 Also, along the way to the hotel we strolled up Grafton Street (a pedestrian shopping mall). And what did we see? A Clarks store that opened up minutes before we strolled by. And what did we find inside? The pair of boots I have been trying to get my hands on for a few months now. Not only did this store have a few pairs in stock, they had a pair in MY size! It was meant to be! (Background: I have been looking for these since my birthday in November. All the stores near us in England were out of this style, and I couldn't find them on the web either). We land in Dublin, and here they are! The luck of the Irish!
My Birthday Boots!
Yay! Thanks, Adam for a great present! :)
HISTORIC WALKING TOUR
Per Steve Rick's Guide to Ireland (of course) we joined the historic walking tour of Dublin. Our guide was a PhD candidate in history and was gracious with his time and knowledge (the tour was to be 2 hours long, and ended up being 3. On a cold winter's day). We saw and learned a lot about the history of the city.
Historic Square of Trinity College, a college funded by Queen Elizabeth I to educate protestants.

Exam Hall at Trinity College

Dorms and homes of debate societies at Trinity College

Great lamppost. Had to share.

A YELLOW Double Decker! We are not in England anymore, Toto.

The first building constructed in the UK specifically to house the parliament. It is currently owned and used by a bank.

 Notice there are no windows: this was built during the time when windows (and therefore, daylight) was taxed. To get around the issue of payment, window panes were eliminated.  


Our Tour Guide, Gavin

A farmers' market. See the huge umbrellas folded in the picture? These were just installed. Four of them can be opened via remote in order to protect the market area from rain.

The Four Courts of Dublin


The Dome within the Four Courts

The flag of Ulster on the wall representing Northern Ireland.



Dublin Castle, the seat of parliament for many years. The Queen of England just visited for the first time last year. This was the first visit of a British monarch since the vote of Independence held in 1922.

Over which Lady Justice presides

Notice that she does not wear a blindfold...

That looks a bit more like a castle...

The first performance of Handel's Messiah was held in Dublin. I bet that was an amazing thing to hear...
MICROBREWS & GUINNESS PIE
After a 3 hour walking tour in the cold, we were ready for some hearty food and some warmth. So where did we end up? At the Bull and Castle, sitting by the fire drinking mircrobrews (Adam was SO EXCITED to see such a thing on the menu) and eating hearty Irish fare.


Steak & Guinness Pie and a Bulmer's Cider

Lamb Stew
 CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL
Christ Church Cathedral. Where kings and queens of the past claimed their stake in protestant, or catholic (as the case may be) Ireland








PUB TIME
After taking a quick nap (that was much needed after a 4 a.m. start that day), we had a late dinner (note: most pubs in Ireland stop serving dinner by 9 p.m.) and hit a few pubs for some spontaneous Irish music. Cue the Dubliners.